Guilin 5-Day Essence Tour | Night Cruise on Two Rivers

Day 1: Arrival in Guilin, Night Tour of Two Rivers and Four Lakes

Last month, I flew from Guangzhou Baiyun Airport to Guilin Liangjiang Airport. I chose the 8:00 flight, landed at 9:30, took 10 minutes to collect my luggage, and called a Didi directly outside the terminal (choose “Express” instead of “Discount” for faster pickup). It cost 25 RMB to Zhongshan Middle Road, taking 40 minutes (the airport is about 30km from the city). Upon arrival, I found the hotel was diagonally opposite the “Smiling hall Commercial Building,” and it was a measured 9-minute walk to Wenchang Bridge Pier, perfect for a quick rest after dropping off luggage.

• Transportation Details: If arriving at Guilin Railway Station by high-speed rail, turn right for 200m to find the bus stop. Take Bus 16 (towards “Garden Botanical Garden”) to “Wenchang Bridge Station”—3 stops in 10 minutes for 2 RMB. From Guilin North Station, Bus 23 goes directly to “Wenchang Bridge Station” in 25 minutes for 2 RMB. Do not trust the unlicensed taxis at the airport exit asking for 50 RMB; Didi’s fixed pricing is much more reliable.
• Accommodation Experience: I stayed at the “City Comfort Inn (Guilin Central Plaza Branch)” for 200 RMB/night (off-season rate). The standard room faced south with a window offering views of distant mountain silhouettes. Soundproofing was decent (I didn’t hear the crying child next door). The receptionist was very thoughtful, proactively providing a map marking the pier and rice noodle shops. There is a 24-hour convenience store and “Youyixuan” rice noodle shop downstairs for late-night cravings.
• Afternoon Activities: At 15:00, I strolled to the perimeter of Elephant Trunk Hill Park. I entered via the walkway next to “Zizhou Park” (free) and walked along the Li River. The path is paved with bluestone, about 500m long, taking 20 minutes to loop. The Li River was slightly murky that day (after light rain), so the reflection of Elephant Trunk Hill wasn’t clear, but the silhouette of the mountain—looking like a real elephant drinking water—was distinct. I met a local man fishing; he threw his line for half an hour without a catch and wasn’t in a hurry, saying he just “enjoyed the cool river breeze.”

Night Tour Key Points: Depart from the hotel at 18:20 (a 10-minute walk) to arrive at the Wenchang Bridge Pier ticket gate by 18:30 sharp (the pier is under the bridge with clear “Two Rivers and Four Lakes Cruise” signs). Don’t be late! A colleague arrived at 18:35 last time and was told the boat was full (limited to 100 people per trip) and had to wait an hour for the next one. The cruise follows the order of “Rong Lake → Shan Lake → Gui Lake → Mulong Lake,” taking 90 minutes total, with different highlights for each:

• Rong Lake: First, you see the thousand-year-old banyan tree (over 1300 years old). Lights spill from the canopy, making the bark look like an old man’s wrinkles, while seniors sit on stone benches below listening to Pingtan;
• Shan Lake: The Sun and Moon Twin Pagodas light show starts at 19:00. The Sun Tower (copper) shines gold, and the Moon Tower (glass) shines silver, their reflections merging into “Sun and Moon Glowing Together”;
• Gui Lake: The Glass Bridge is the highlight. The bridge body is transparent, and under the lights, the water surface looks like crushed diamonds. Ancient-style houseboats with red lanterns are moored nearby;
• Mulong Lake: The Song-style architectural complex before the exit. Strings of lanterns hang from the eaves to the water, where ladies in Hanfu take photos.Recommended Seating: Second floor, right side (3rd row on the starboard side) for an unobstructed view of the Twin Pagodas and Glass Bridge. Free audio guides are available on board (50 RMB deposit), explaining the history of each lake, such as Gui Lake being a Song Dynasty moat.

Food Records: Hungry after disembarking, I found “Haitian Changfen” (Steamed Vermicelli Rolls) just 50m left of the pier exit. It’s small but clean, owned by someone from Guangdong. I ordered the Beef Steamed Vermicelli Roll with Egg for 8 RMB: the rice milk is freshly ground and steamed, with skin so thin you can see the beef strips. The beef is marinated with soy sauce and starch, making it tender; the egg is soft-boiled, flowing yellow when poked. Compared to the 12 RMB BBQ pork rolls next door, this place is much better value—I ate here two days in a row.

Case: Pitfalls of the Night Tour

A friend once bought cheap tickets from a “roadside guide” (150 RMB/person instead of 210 RMB). They were taken to a remote pier on a small boat with no air conditioning, missed the Mulong Lake section, and the light show. I later learned that official tickets can only be bought at the pier office or via the “Guilin Two Rivers and Four Lakes” WeChat account; buy on-site only (don’t trust third parties).

Day 1 Cost Breakdown

My Experience: Bring a light jacket for the night tour (the river breeze is cool), keep your phone charged (photography drains battery), and don’t bring large bags (security checks are thorough). If you want to capture the Twin Pagodas, stand on the right side of the bow at 19:00 sharp when the lights first turn on for the best shot.

Day 2: Guilin → Yangshuo, Cycling by Yulong River

For this leg, I walked from my hotel on Zhongshan Middle Road to the “Guilin General Bus Station” at 7:40. It took 10 minutes (the station is at the intersection of Zhongshan South Road and Shanghai Road, look for the “Guilin Passenger General Station” blue sign). I caught the first bus to Yangshuo at 8:05 for 25 RMB/person. The bus had strong air conditioning and soft velvet seats, plus a luggage compartment for large suitcases. 1.5 hours later, at 9:35, I arrived at Yangshuo Bus Station (5 minutes early). I exited towards “West Street,” crossed the road to the entrance, and reached my guesthouse by 10:30 to drop off luggage.

• Transportation Details: From Guilin city to the General Bus Station, take Bus 16 or 23 (2 RMB/person, 20 minutes). If staying near Guilin North Station, take Bus 100 (3 RMB/person, 30 minutes). Buses run every 30 minutes from 8:00-18:00. I recommend arriving 10 minutes early to queue; it gets crowded in peak season. It’s an 8-minute walk from Yangshuo Bus Station to West Street (straight along Pantao Road past KFC). Don’t trust the tricycles (asking 15 RMB for a very short distance).
• Accommodation Experience: I stayed at “Shanyu Guesthouse” deep in Bilian Alley, 50m from the main West Street—quiet yet central. 150 RMB/night (off-season). The 15 sqm room had a 2 sqm balcony facing distant gray peaks (I saw a sunrise cloud sea at 6:00). The owner’s orange cat, “Potato,” was friendly and napped by my feet while I read. The owner, a local, provided a hand-drawn map with cycling routes and beautiful rice paddy photo spots, warning me “not to eat Beer Fish on the main West Street; it’s expensive and unauthentic.”
• Lunch Record: At 12:00, I went to “Master Chef Beer Fish General Store” on West Street (look for the “Established 1998” sign). It was bustling but service was fast. I ordered 2 jin of Sword-bone Fish (120 RMB, including processing). The server noted it’s tender with few bones. It arrived sizzling in a clay pot with thick white broth and finely sliced sour bamboo shoots. The fish was silky and fresh with a fermented aroma. It paired perfectly with Wuchang Rice (5 RMB). Compared to 198 RMB for Catfish at “influencer shops,” this was much better value. I later found out the chef is the owner’s brother, using a three-generation recipe.
• Cycling Details: At 14:00, I went to Gongnong Bridge (entrance to Yulong River Scenic Area). I rented from “Ah Qiang Bike Rental” next to the bridge (avoid the touts at the bridgehead; their bikes are old). A mountain bike with shock absorbers was 30 RMB/day (200 RMB deposit). I lowered the seat two notches (at 168cm, my feet touched the ground). The route followed Gongnong Bridge → Jiuxian Village → Jima Pier → Chaoyang Pier (15km). The asphalt road was flat and easy to ride:
  • Gongnong Bridge to Jiuxian Village (5km): Lined with rice paddies, lush green in June and golden in September. I stopped at the “Rice Paddy Viewing Platform” for a photo;
  • Rest at Jiuxian Village: There’s a 2m wide clear stream at the entrance where villagers wash vegetables. I bought a cucumber (2 RMB) to eat while cooling off. A stone by the stream is carved with “Jiuxian Village Ming-Qing Ancient Post Road”;
  • Jima Pier to Chaoyang Pier (4km): Passed the “Yulong River Rafting Starting Point” to watch bamboo rafts float down. The raftsmen’s pole movements were skillful, creating sparkling splashes in the sun.The whole ride took 2 hours including breaks. I returned the bike at Chaoyang Pier with no leg soreness.
• Important Notes: Do not rent electric scooters (20 RMB/hour, seemingly easy but they weigh 30kg more; Yulong River has narrow paths making passing difficult). Wear a wide-brimmed straw hat (I used a “Beneunder” foldable one for 35 RMB) and SPF 50+ sunscreen. Bring 1 bottle of water (bottles at Jiuxian Village shops are 3 RMB, cheaper than inside the scenic area).

Case: Lessons from Renting an Electric Scooter

A friend once rented an electric scooter for the novelty and nearly hit a bicycle near Jima Pier—scooters are heavy and clumsy on narrow turns. He ended up pushing it for 1km and said “bikes are much more reliable,” plus he paid an extra 20 RMB in overtime fees.

Day 2 Cost Breakdown

My Experience: Check the tire pressure before riding (Ah Qiang’s will pump them for you). Villagers near the Jiuxian stream sell freshly picked longans (6 RMB/jin, sweet); don’t buy high-priced fruit at Jima Pier. Take “Binjiang Road” back to West Street along the Yulong River for fewer cars and better sunset views over the paddies.

Day 3: Yangshuo Classics, Impression Liu Sanjie

This morning, I didn’t sleep in. At 8:50, I grabbed a Meituan bike at the West Street entrance (Hellobike also works, starting at 1.5 RMB/30 mins) and rode into the Ten-Mile Gallery by 9:00 sharp. This road follows the Yulong River and is smooth as a mirror, flanked by karst peaks like ink-wash mountain tops piercing the sky. I rode to the “Moon Hill Viewing Platform” sign, parked, and climbed for 5 minutes (28 steps). The viewing platform is a natural stone ledge with no railings but safe. I crouched on the left to see the crescent cave as a vertical ellipse; from the right, it became a horizontal crescent. Moving back, the hill and cave merged into a “full moon”—every angle was like a new postcard, and it’s free.

• Transportation Details: Shared bikes are everywhere in the Ten-Mile Gallery (don’t ride outside the boundary to avoid fees). It’s about 3km from West Street to Moon Hill (15 mins). The Big Banyan Tree area is in the middle of the gallery; look for the “Liu Sanjie Former Residence” sign. Just take a photo with the canopy from the roadside (it’s 10m+ wide with roots like a beard). Don’t pay 20 RMB to enter; there’s nothing but the tree inside.
• Xingping Ancient Town Round Trip: At 12:10, I took the shuttle (white bus labeled “Xingping Line”) from “Fengming Tourist Center” for 5 RMB/person. It took 20 minutes to Xingping Bus Station. From there, it’s a 5-minute walk to the town entrance. Don’t believe the tricycles (asking 10 RMB for a detour).
• Food Records: “Old Place Restaurant” at the town entrance is a family-run shop with an open kitchen. I ordered Bamboo Rice for 15 RMB/tube (long bamboo filled with 1 jin of sticky rice, BBQ sausage, and peanuts). It arrived hot; the rice was soft with a bamboo aroma. The Stuffed Field Snails were 20 RMB/portion (tails removed, filled with pork and mint, braised with purple perilla). The sauce was a savory tomato and pickled pepper base. Compared to 25 RMB “influencer” rice inside the town, this was much more authentic.
• 20 RMB Note Backdrop: Arrived at 14:30 (navigate to “20 RMB Note Background Viewing Platform” near Xingping Pier). Bring a 20 RMB bill (2019 version, featuring Yellow Cloth Reflection). I stood on the third step of the platform and held the note up—mountains, towers, and the river all aligned. I stayed to the left of the center to avoid the crowds blocking the lens.
• Impression Liu Sanjie Experience: Watched at the Li River Theater at 19:45 (booked 3 days early on “Guilin Travel” WeChat, B Area, Row 8, Center for 180 RMB). I chose this for the eye-level view of the landscape (A Area is too close, C Area too far). The sound is incredible, coming from the mountains like natural harmony. The show has three acts: Red (fishing), Green (paddy life), and Gold (harvest). The real landscape background is breathtaking—actors perform on a stage built on the Li River water with bamboo rafts as moving sets. No dull moments for 70 minutes.
• Dinner Record: Back on West Street at 21:00, I went to “Shouzi Rice Noodles” (end of West Street, away from the main strip). Rice Noodles with Crispy Pork (Guoshao) for 10 RMB. The pork is fried 3mm thick, crispy and savory; the bone broth is aromatic with star anise. Compared to 15 RMB at tourist traps, this was a filling bargain.

Case: Lesson from Booking Impression Liu Sanjie

A friend once bought C Area back-row tickets (150 RMB) to save money. They sat in the last row where the actors looked like ants and the sound was mixed with audience chatter. Official channels (WeChat/window) might be 30 RMB more, but the seat maps are accurate, and B Area center is the prime spot.

Day 3 Cost Breakdown

My Experience: Moon Hill viewing platform is backlit after 4 PM, making photos dark, so go in the morning. Don’t buy “colored bamboo” rice in Xingping (it’s painted and has less flavor). There’s a free shuttle back to West Street after the show (20:50 departure); don’t bother with taxis.

Day 4: Yangshuo → Longji Rice Terraces Day Trip

Woke up at 7:00, packed a bag with water, energy bars, and sunscreen. Walked 15 mins to the Yangshuo Bus Station entrance by 7:20. At 7:30 sharp, the blue “Longji Terraces Shuttle” arrived (labeled “Jinkeng Dazhai”). 50 RMB/person round trip with pickup. The 2.5-hour drive starts on asphalt but enters mountain roads that twist like pretzels. Soon, glimpses of terrace outlines appeared—ridges spiraling with the mountain like green silk ribbons, getting more spectacular as we climbed.

• Transportation Details: Shuttles run at 7:30 and 8:30 (more in peak season). Queue 10 mins early. The return trip leaves Jinkeng Dazhai parking lot at 17:30 (last bus! Don’t miss it). Arrives in Guilin city around 20:00. Don’t believe roadside carpoolers asking for 80 RMB/person.
• Accommodation Link: Back in Guilin at 20:00, I stayed at the same City Comfort Inn on Zhongshan Road to avoid moving luggage, convenient for the Day 5 departure.
• Food Records: At 12:00 at the Jinkeng Dazhai parking lot, I followed signs to “Grandma’s Farm Food.” I ordered Half a Bamboo Chicken for 80 RMB (locally raised for 8 months). It arrived steaming; the meat was tender and slipped off the bone, with a fresh bamboo aroma. I also had Smoked Pork with Ferns for 35 RMB: the pork was smoked over a hearth for 3 months, and the ferns were freshly picked that morning. The portion was huge for two people.
• Sights and Activities: At 13:30, I took the cable car to Xishan Shaole (55 RMB one way, 100 RMB round trip). The 10-minute ascent offered a panoramic view of the terraces—thousands of ridges looking like fingerprints on the hills. I then hiked: Xishan Shaole → Thousand-layer Heaven Ladder → Golden Buddha Peak (3 hours total).
  • Thousand-layer Heaven Ladder: From Xishan Shaole, follow the stone steps—about 800 steps at a 45-degree incline with iron handrails (slippery when wet!). Halfway up, the terraces look like a green waterfall;
  • Golden Buddha Peak: The final viewing platform (1180m alt). Around 18:00, I watched the sunset—the sun turned the clouds orange and the terraces glowed like gold dust. Videos capture the mountain mist and clouds better than photos.Key Reminder: Wear non-slip sports shoes! Stone paths get slippery with dew. I saw a tourist in flat shoes fall on the ladder.
• Return Notice: Be at the parking lot by 17:30 for the shuttle (don’t stay too late). The bus leaves on time, and the last one is at 18:00. Missing it means paying for an expensive and unreliable private car.

Case: Lesson from Not Wearing Non-Slip Shoes

A friend wore canvas shoes last time and slipped on a wet stone at the Heaven Ladder, scraping their knee. They said, “I wish I listened and wore hiking shoes.” Be sure to bring shoes with deep treads; don’t just dress for looks.

Day 4 Cost Breakdown

My Experience: Bring water (it’s 5 RMB/bottle on the mountain); don’t go on rainy days (slippery and too foggy); follow signs closely when hiking (easy to get lost). Grab a nap on the bus back to Guilin to recover from the hike.

Day 5: Departure from Guilin, Trip Wrap-up

Before leaving, I didn’t set an alarm and woke up naturally at 8:30. Opening the window on Zhongshan Middle Road, the air smelled like wet rice noodles. I wanted a slow finish. I packed my dried Monk Fruit for my elders, checked out at 10:00, and headed out light.

• Morning Activities: Chose to climb Diecai Hill (close to the hotel, 12-min walk). Tickets are 25 RMB/person (buy on-site via QR code). Entered through “Mingyue Peak.” It’s a 20-minute climb to the top. The “Nayun Pavilion” is the highest point, overlooking the Li River like a green ribbon (clearest from Elephant Hill to Jiefang Bridge). The city looks like colorful building blocks. I skipped the Jingjiang Princes’ Palace perimeter to save time, though the Ming Dynasty city walls are a nice free spot for a local walk.
• Accommodation Link: Check out before 12:00 and store luggage at the hotel (free until 4:00 PM) to walk around freely.
• Food Records: At 12:30, I went to “Shiji Rice Noodle General Store” (12 Jiefang West Road; look for the red “General Store” sign, don’t go to branches). I had the Rice Noodles with Crispy Pork for 10 RMB: 3mm thick fried pork, crispy and savory with bone broth and fermented soy flavor. Compared to 15 RMB in Yangshuo, this was a 10 RMB feast. I drank all the soup.
• Afternoon Transportation: Depending on your departure:
  • If flying to Guangzhou: Take a taxi at 15:00 for 80 RMB via the airport highway (40 mins, avoiding city traffic);
  • If by high-speed rail: Taxis to the station are under 15 RMB. Or walk 5 mins to “Guilin Station Bus Stop” for the K99 directly to the North Station (2 RMB, 40 mins).

Case: Lesson from Finding the Wrong Noodle Shop

A friend didn’t remember the “General Store” address and wandered for 20 mins, ending up in a branch where the pork was paper-thin and the broth was bland. Look for the red sign at 12 Jiefang West Road; don’t just follow “nearby branches” on navigation.

Day 5 Reference Costs

Total Cost Summary (5-Day Integration)

My Experience Tips: Arrive at the airport 2 hours early (Guilin check-in is slow); go to Shiji General Store before 11 AM to avoid queues; Diecai Hill light is soft after 4 PM for non-backlit photos; double-check your pockets when checking out. I’ve done this route 3 times—the pace is perfectly balanced between sights and food. Follow this and you’ll be fine.

Related Reading

• Guilin 6-Day Summer Escape Plan | Climbing Waterfalls at Gudong Waterfall + Exploring Yinzi Rock Cave + Boating on Qingshitan Lake, A 25℃ Summer
• Guilin 7-Day Humanities Journey | Intangible Cultural Heritage Handicrafts + Ancient Architecture Exploration + War of Resistance Sites, A Must-See for Deep Cultural Enthusiasts
• Should I stay at West Street or Yulong River in Yangshuo | Travel convenience, night noise, and family accommodation
• Guilin 8-Day Ultra-Long Stay | Li River + Yangshuo + Longji + Nanning, Exploring All of Guangxi in One Go
• 5-Day Slow Living in Guilin | Daydreaming on Li River Bamboo Rafts + Lying Flat in Yangshuo Cafes + Exploring West Street Night Market, Healing Vacation Guide

Yangshuo — — Practical Data

Tickets & Booking

• Silver Cave (Lipu city, on the Yangshuo border): Adult CNY 65 per person; children aged 6/under 1.2 m, seniors over 65, disabled persons and active-duty military personnel free; no booking required^[src]

Transport & Schedules

• Yangshuo station (high-speed rail station) → Yangshuo county town | Dedicated coach/taxi: Yangshuo high-speed rail station is in Xingping town, about 20–30 km from the county town, requiring a transfer by dedicated coach (about CNY 5, about 40 min) or taxi (about CNY 60)^[src]

Where to Stay · Room Type · Nearby

• Yangshuo West Street | Room tip: Lively with convenient food and shopping, but loud bar noise | Nearby add-ons: West Street night market, the Li River bank^[src]
• Xingping Ancient Town | Room tip: Quiet, close to the CNY 20 banknote backdrop spot | Nearby add-ons: Xingping Ancient Town, Laozhai Mountain, the CNY 20 backdrop spot^[src]