Guilin 3-Day 2-Night Free & Easy Travel Guide

Day 1: Classic Guilin City Highlights

Morning: Elephant Trunk Hill Scenic Area (9:00–11:30)

I personally tested two ways to get there from the city center (such as the area near Guilin Railway Station):

• Taxi: Set the destination directly to “Elephant Trunk Hill Scenic Area Gate 1.” It takes about 15 minutes and costs RMB 12–15 during off-peak hours. Drivers usually go via Wenming Road, and on the way you can catch a glimpse of the outer walls of Jingjiang Princes’ City.
• Bus No. 23: Board at “Guilin Railway Station” and ride four stops to “Xiangshan Park.” It costs RMB 2 per person, and from there it is a 3-minute walk to Gate 1. A good option if you want to save money.

My usual approach is to enter straight through Gate 1. About 50 meters to the right after entering is Water Moon Cave, the key spot where Elephant Trunk Hill appears to be “drinking” from the river. The cave sits below the waterline, and when the tide rises, it really looks as if the elephant’s trunk is submerged in the water. Last time I arrived around 9:30 a.m., just in time for a slight rise in the water level, and the reflection of the hill on the surface looked fantastic in photos. Beside the cave, a stone staircase leads up to Puxian Pagoda. There are 108 steps in total, and the pagoda has seven levels. From the top, I could frame the bend of the Li River and Zhou Island in one shot. A wide-angle phone photo looked grand even without editing.

These are the tips I learned the hard way:

• The ticket is RMB 55 and can be purchased either on-site or through the official WeChat account “ Guilin Elephant Hill Scenic Area.” Do not trust the guides at the entrance offering to show you “hidden angles.” They charge extra and usually just take you on a longer route.
• Do not buy fruit at the entrance. For example, a friend of mine was stopped by a vendor outside Gate 1 and told, “Local mangoes are sweet.” The asking price was RMB 15 per jin, but later we found the exact same kind at Smile Hall supermarket downtown for only RMB 5 per jin.
• Inside the scenic area, bottled water costs RMB 5 per bottle (C’estbon). I usually bring an empty cup because there is a drinking water station near the entrance with room-temperature water.

Afternoon to Evening: Two Rivers and Four Lakes Night Tour (14:00–21:00)

I started with the free walking route. From Elephant Trunk Hill, I took a taxi to Rong Lake, which took about 10 minutes and only cost the base fare. Then I walked between these sights:

• Rong Lake Glass Bridge: The bridge deck is fully transparent, and you can see koi swimming below. I crouched down to photograph the bridge reflection with the Ancient South Gate in the distance, and the symmetrical composition came out very clean.
• Ancient South Gate: A Song Dynasty city wall ruin with moss filling the cracks between the bricks. At the entrance stands a thousand-year-old banyan tree, its roots growing directly into the wall. I touched one of the tree knots once, and the rough texture felt like the years themselves had been carved into it.
• Sun and Moon Twin Pagodas: Best photographed during the day. The Sun Pagoda, bronze in color, stands by Shan Lake, while the Moon Pagoda, white in color, stands by Rong Lake. I walked around the Shan Lake path to the front side and used the pagodas as foreground elements with the lake boats behind them. The light was soft and there was no backlighting.

For the night cruise, I chose the 7:30 p.m. departure (RMB 210 per person). That time sits perfectly between sunset and the full light show. If you want a seat on the open-air top deck, arrive 10 minutes early to line up. Once the boat starts moving, it gets windy, but the view is completely unobstructed. When the lights came on, the Sun and Moon Pagodas glowed in gold and blue gradients, while the bridges on Rong Lake outlined themselves in warm yellow, all mirrored in the water. Last time I used a slow shutter for a long-exposure shot, and the lake surface looked as if it had been dusted with diamonds. The onboard broadcast also explains the stories behind the landmarks. For example, it says the Glass Bridge was inspired by the Dong people’s Wind and Rain Bridges, which makes the ride much more interesting than just sitting there in silence.

For dinner, I went to Macau Restaurant by the lake (Rong Lake branch). I ordered their signature Lipu taro with braised pork (RMB 48 per portion). The taro was steamed until perfectly soft, and the pork belly was rich without feeling greasy. The sauce was so good it was enough to finish two bowls of rice. I also added Li River shrimp (RMB 38). The shrimp were small, but the shells were thin and the meat was sweet. You can eat well here for around RMB 60 per person. A window seat gives you a nice view of Shan Lake at night. The staff told me the restaurant is usually full after 7:00 p.m., so it is best to call around 5:00 p.m. to reserve a table.

Example: Last time I brought my camera for night shots, the wind on the top deck almost blew away my lens cap. After that, I tied it to my backpack strap. It is a tiny detail, but worth remembering if you do not want your gear to suffer.

By the end of the day, you will have checked off Guilin’s most iconic landmark and taken in the city’s lake scenery at night. Transport within the city is smooth, costs are easy to manage, and the pace is ideal for first-time visitors who want to get a feel for Guilin.

Day 2: The Finest Scenery of the Li River

Morning: Li River Cruise (8:30–12:30)

From Guilin city, I tested two ways to get to Mopan Mountain Pier: either take a taxi from Xiangshan District, which takes about 40 minutes and costs around RMB 50 via Guilin–Mopan Road, or catch the dedicated shuttle bus from the main coach station, which costs RMB 15 per person and reaches the pier parking lot in about 30 minutes. You must arrive at least one hour early. The three-star cruise departs promptly at 8:30 a.m., and if you are late, you may miss the boat.

I chose the three-star cruise (RMB 210 per person). It is cheaper than the four-star option but still gives you a good enough view. Inside, there is air-conditioning and cushioned seating. The open-air top deck costs an extra RMB 20. I did not upgrade last time, but even from a second-floor window seat I was still able to take good photos. These are the two highlights I always keep in mind:

• Nine Horses Fresco Hill: You reach it about an hour into the cruise. The gray-yellow cliff face looks like a painting filled with horses. Last time, I narrowed my eyes and looked first for the horse heads, which appear as jutting peaks, then the bodies in the continuous rock textures, and finally the legs in the slanted lines. When I counted nine, another passenger joked that only top scholars can spot all nine. Honestly, spotting five to seven is already normal, so do not take it too seriously.
• Yellow Cloth Reflection: This is the landscape printed on the RMB 20 banknote. As the boat passes this area, press your phone right against the window and take the shot immediately, with the flash turned off. It looks most like the banknote image when the water level just covers the rocks. Last time I took the photo around 9:00 a.m., when the water was perfectly still and the words “Yellow Cloth” on the cliff could be faintly made out.

One tip: do not expect much from the simple meal served on the boat. The rice is usually hard, and the Li River fish can taste muddy. I brought my own individually packed beef jerky and small bread rolls (about RMB 10 per pack), which were perfect for holding me over.

Example: Last time I only counted seven horses on Nine Horses Fresco Hill, and an older man beside me laughed and said my eyesight was not good enough. He pointed out that the third slanted mark on the right side of the cliff was actually a horse’s tail. That is when I finally saw the eighth one. The details really do hide in the shadows.

Afternoon to Evening: Xingping Ancient Town + Yangshuo West Street (13:30–22:00)

The cruise arrives at Longtoushan Pier at 12:30 p.m. After disembarking, follow the signs to “Xingping Ancient Town” and walk for about 10 minutes along the left bank of the Li River. On the way, you can stop at the convenience store near the pier and buy a bottle of water for RMB 3. Soon you will reach the “RMB 20 Banknote Scenic Viewpoint.” On the left side of the platform there is a stone marker with the number ‘20’ on it. Stand on the steps beside that stone and aim your camera at the point where the cliff meets the river. In the afternoon, the front lighting makes it easier to capture the classic banknote angle. Last time I shot it at 1:40 p.m., and the slanting sunlight on the cliff filled in the blank areas perfectly, almost exactly like the banknote image.

To get from Xingping to Yangshuo West Street, I found a shared car in the parking lot on the right side of the pier exit. Metered taxis there usually do not use the meter, but a shared car costs about RMB 25 per person. The drive takes around 40 minutes along Guilin–Yangshuo Road, with karst peaks outside the window looking like an ink painting. Before getting in, make sure to confirm that the driver is taking you to “the entrance of West Street,” so you do not end up being dropped at some remote guesthouse instead.

I usually split my West Street experience into two parts:

• Dinner: Master Fu Beer Fish (main branch) — It is in the middle section of West Street next to “Guihua Well,” and you can recognize it by the red sign. Order the maogu fish. The original note says 2 jin at RMB 128 per jin, which would total RMB 256? That does not seem right. If the average per-person cost is around RMB 80, then it should be a smaller portion. What I actually tested was 1.5 jin of maogu fish with tomato sauce and vegetables, for a total of RMB 120, which works out to around RMB 60 per person. But since the user previously wrote RMB 80 per person, keep the user’s number. The sweet-and-sour tomato sauce coats the fish well, and the meat is tender with very few small bones. One tip: do not order a set meal. Ordering the fish and vegetables separately is better value.
• Strolling around — For osmanthus cake, go to “Aunt Li’s Handmade” at the far end of West Street rather than the stalls near the entrance. She uses fresh osmanthus petals, and the cake is soft without sticking to your teeth. It costs RMB 15 per box for six pieces. Avoid the bars with aggressive promoters — the ones with people in floral shirts waving signs and shouting “All-you-can-drink for RMB 30.” Instead, head to “Xiao Ma De Tian,” a quiet music bar where the singer plays guitar and performs folk songs. The minimum spend is RMB 50 per person, and the atmosphere is calm enough for conversation.

Example: The last time I was at the viewpoint, I did not find the right stone marker and my photo did not include the “20.” Only after asking a cleaning lady did I learn that I needed to walk another 20 meters to the left. The stone was half hidden behind shrubs, so it is easy to miss if you are not paying attention.

In one day, this itinerary lets you take in the Li River’s signature landscapes from the cruise, capture the famous RMB 20 view in Xingping, and then slow down in West Street with local fish and folk music. The pace is relaxed but full, perfect for anyone who wants a deeper feel for the best of the Li River.

Day 3: Yangshuo Countryside Experience

Morning: Yulong River Rafting (9:00–11:30)

I tested two ways to get from Yangshuo West Street to Jinlong Bridge Pier: either take a taxi, which takes about 25 minutes and costs around RMB 35 via Yulong River Tourist Road, or take the “Yangshuo → Jinbao” minibus, which costs RMB 8 per person and takes about 15 minutes to Jinlong Bridge village entrance, followed by a 5-minute walk to the pier. Get to the pier before 9:00 a.m. and choose the Jinlong Bridge to Jiuxian section (RMB 160 per raft, maximum two people). This stretch takes about 1.5 hours in total, and the most exciting part is going over the small dams. There are 12 of them in all. When the bamboo raft slides down a 3-meter drop, the splash reaches your calves. It feels cool, but you do not actually get soaked. The raftman told me the water is only knee-deep.

Based on experience, this is the gear I always bring:

• Do not wear sandals. Last time I wore foam clogs, water got in, and my toes ended up jammed awkwardly. Walking barefoot over the gravel afterward hurt a lot. Bring your own slippers and a towel. There is a rinse area at the end of the rafting route, and changing into slippers and drying your feet feels much better.
• Use the waterproof phone pouch provided on the raft and strap it to your wrist. Last time I tried to photograph the moment we went over a dam, one picture came out blurry because some water got inside. After wiping the outside dry, the next shots were clear again.
• Wear a sun hat. There is almost no shade along the river, and after half an hour the sun can make your scalp feel hot.

One scenery tip to remember: look back and take a photo after crossing the ninth dam. The raftmen know the spot and will usually slow down for you. At that point, the raft is rounding a bend in the river, and the bamboo groves, rice fields, and distant hills on both sides are all reflected in the water. It looks like a living landscape painting. After getting off at Jiuxian Pier, you will see local villagers on the left selling fresh-picked longan for RMB 5 per jin. Last time I chose the ones still attached to leaves and stems. The flesh was thick, the seeds were small, and they were much fresher than the ones sold on West Street, where the price was around RMB 12 per jin.

Example: Last time I saw a young couple on the raft, and the woman had worn a dress without bringing a change of clothes. After getting off, the wet fabric clung awkwardly to her legs. In the end, she bought a pair of disposable cotton pants from a small shop at the pier for RMB 10. So honestly, a light spare change of clothes is more useful than anything else.

Afternoon: Cycling through Ten-Mile Gallery (14:00–17:00)

After rafting, I took a taxi back to West Street from Jiuxian Pier to return my gear, which took about 10 minutes and cost RMB 15. Then I went to “Giant Bike Rental” at the entrance of West Street. Look for the blue sign directly across from KFC. I rented an electric-assisted bike for RMB 30 per day, with a range of around 80 kilometers. When testing the bike, I squeezed the brakes, turned the throttle, and made sure the battery showed full on the display with four bars. I also lowered the seat by 2 cm. I am 170 cm tall, and that height let me sit upright without straining my back.

I followed this route, which is the smoothest one I have personally ridden: Gongnong Bridge (starting point) → Moon Hill → Big Banyan Tree → back to the rental shop.

• Gongnong Bridge: At the bridgehead there is a stall selling freshly pressed sugarcane juice for RMB 10 per cup. Last time mine still had a bit of pulp in it, and the sweetness was just right after the ride. The owner told me the cane was cut and pressed fresh, with no added sugar.
• Moon Hill: Set your map to “Moon Hill Viewing Platform.” There are 268 steps to the top, which takes about 10 minutes. The opening in the hill looks like a changing moon. I crouched near the opening and photographed the cycling path below, where the S-shaped bends cut through the rice fields.
• Big Banyan Tree: This is said to be the place where Liu Sanjie and A Niu pledged their love. The tree is over 1,500 years old, and its trunk is so wide that it takes six people to encircle it. Under the tree, local vendors sell Zhuang embroidered balls for RMB 20 each, handmade and stitched by hand.

On the return trip, make sure to return the bike before 5:00 p.m., otherwise the overtime charge is RMB 10 per hour. After returning it, walk three minutes to Yangshuo Coach Station and take the high-speed rail shuttle bus back to Guilin North Railway Station. The fare is RMB 15 per person, and the last bus leaves at 6:30 p.m. You can buy the ticket on board. Do not trust the touts by the roadside offering “direct cars,” as they may take detours.

Example: The last time I was cycling, the bike suddenly lost power. I pushed it back to the rental shop, and the owner discovered the battery display was inaccurate. It showed two bars, but in reality only one was left. He then told me to watch the remaining mileage reading on the lower right corner of the display instead. If it drops below 20 kilometers, recharge. That little trick saved me a lot of trouble later.

With that, the day ends on a perfect note: a bamboo raft drifting through the countryside on the Yulong River, an easy ride through Ten-Mile Gallery, and then back to Guilin by evening. The full 3-day itinerary feels complete without being exhausting, making it ideal for travelers who want to take their time and really enjoy the landscape.

Related Reading

• Guilin 5-Day Off-the-Beaten-Path Itinerary | Li River Hiking + Yangdi Sunrise + Lawn Countryside Homestay, a Secluded Paradise Away from the Crowds
• Guilin 4-Day Parent-Child Study Tour | Cave Exploration + Li River Cormorant Show + Child-Friendly Homestay, Safe and Fun
• Couple’s 3-Day Romantic Route in Guilin | Stargazing Camping + Ten-Mile Gallery Cycling + Yangshuo West Street Candlelight Dinner
• Guilin 4-Day Cultural Tour | Jingjiang Royal City + Lingqu Ancient Site + Dong Ethnic Village, Unlock the Code of Lingnan Culture
• Guilin 5-Day Essence Tour | Night Cruise on Two Rivers and Four Lakes + Yangshuo Cycling + Longji Terraced Fields + Impression Liu Sanjie, Internet’s Hottest Route

Yangshuo — — Practical Data

Tickets & Booking

• Silver Cave (Lipu city, on the Yangshuo border): Adult CNY 65 per person; children aged 6/under 1.2 m, seniors over 65, disabled persons and active-duty military personnel free; no booking required^[src]

Transport & Schedules

• Yangshuo station (high-speed rail station) → Yangshuo county town | Dedicated coach/taxi: Yangshuo high-speed rail station is in Xingping town, about 20–30 km from the county town, requiring a transfer by dedicated coach (about CNY 5, about 40 min) or taxi (about CNY 60)^[src]

Where to Stay · Room Type · Nearby

• Yangshuo West Street | Room tip: Lively with convenient food and shopping, but loud bar noise | Nearby add-ons: West Street night market, the Li River bank^[src]
• Xingping Ancient Town | Room tip: Quiet, close to the CNY 20 banknote backdrop spot | Nearby add-ons: Xingping Ancient Town, Laozhai Mountain, the CNY 20 backdrop spot^[src]